Millenium PB48

Setup

To spare some of you the research:

To get this to work half-normalized, pop out the two flathead screws on the front panel and take the panel off. You'll see every channel is a detachable card. Take each of those out and switch them around, so that the grey jack is on the bottom of the front panel.

There is no video on Youtube on how to do that on this exact model but there is one about the Neutrik NYS-SPP-L1 patchbay which works just like this one does.

More expensive patchbays allow you to flick a switch for each channel to change the behaviour, for these cheap ones you'll need to pop them open.

Bay

can't say much. it does what it was made to. since I never owned other brands - can't compare noise levels it presents. over all Millenium Bay is better than no bay at all

very well made

Excellent value for money, the build quality is solid & feels like it'll last for years. Of course at this price, it only does semi-normalled connections but 95% that's what most people need anyway and it's a great budget option

Avoid at all cost.

Out of the 48 channels, at least 10 of them work poorly. I kept it because I needed something at the moment, and wasn't going to use all 48 channels.

Buy a Behringer unit instead, much better, and has a proper switch for changing modes of operation.

Documentation was confusing, but otherwise it does the job.

It's a patchbay, it's nothing fancy. If you're the sort of person interested in gold connectors and audiofile wotsits, then you wouldn't be looking at purchasing this patchbay.

If you want something cheap, reliable, does the job, then this right here is value for money.

Only thing I will add is that the documentation confused the absolute hell out of me at the time. I've had it so long now, that I forget what the exact issue was, something about how the normalization worked, I think. But I got past that hump, and it's been happy patching ever since.

It doesn't feel like top-notch quality, but you can't expect it to for the price. All I wanted was reliability, and I've got that.

How difficult can it be to build a decent patchbay for a reasonable price?

Like its competitor, the Neutrik NYS-SPP L1, this unit has a very flimsy build quality. The connections have started to loosen after limited use, leading to partial signal loss on some channels. The problems are similar to such a degree that one might suspect these items are constructed, for lack of a better word, by the same QC-lacking manufacturer. At roughly three times the price, the Samson S-Patch is a vastly superior product.

Bad copy of the Neutrik NYS SPP L1

This is a really bad copy of the Neu­trik NYS SPP L1 !

Why ?

Some connections didn't work from the beginning.

Really bad solder joints. I had to resolder all the joints and the solder tin did not flow good also on the pcb's.

The Iron case is good but that 's it.

Save yourself the troubel and buy a Neu­trik NYS SPP L1 !

It does the job

I bought this patch bay as a means to having all inputs/outputs for my pedals and fx in one spot. it just keeps all the cables and clutter to a secluded area in the back. it does the job just as expected.

Very good product.

Cheap but good. I have been using two of them in my studio for a few years and have no problems at all. Good connector contact. For the price it's just perfect.

Basic patchbay but does the job

I've never bought a patchbay before because there was always some more interesting piece of equipment that actually did something to the sound that could be bought for the same money.

This patch bay is so affordable it's really worth having to avoid having to keep going to the back of your outboard and plugging/unplugging things. In fact I'd pay more than this.

There's no mode switching options and I understand the durability may not be as good as more expensive patch bays if you're planning on constant use, but it's still very useful.